Drafting A Hood From Scratch

When the call-out hit my inbox for a sample hack theme on the Curvy Sewing Collective, I instantly knew I wish to mess about with hoodies. Hardly per week goes by I don sew up a hoodie of some type; this final two weeks; I put collectively three. One a satin-lined no-wale corduroy jacket; the opposite two a pair of sportswear bamboo french terry beauties. For each, I used the same fabric line – Nature Fabrics bamboo stretch french terry. I take advantage of it for almost all my hoodies as a result of the colors are gorgeous, and the fabrics feel great and wear beautifully.

Understanding I wished to write about hoodies, the question was therefore – what to put in writing? I e made extra hoodie sorts than most people you understand. I e made sheer hoodies, velour hoodies, colorblocked hoodies, and hand-stenciled hoodies. I e made unicorn and pegasus and tiger-striped alicorn hoodies. I e made squid, yeti, axolotl and platypus hoodies. I e made angler fish hoodies with a real glowing lure. I e made finned hoodies, eared hoodies, double hoodies ( t gonna get weird TWO hoods . And a billion child hoodies and basic hoodies, at that.

I guess what I saying is, I wish to make these suckers!

But in fascinated by this submit, one thing I believed could be useful is a brief demo on methods to create a hood given a t-shirt pattern. Then, I assumed – for enjoyable – I throw in my method for creating a protracted knotted hood, in addition to my method for inserting easy ears in a hood.

So let do our basic draft-a-hood bit first!

Keep in thoughts there are a limitless variety of hood shapes you’ll be able to create, and there are also many other ways to draft. That is my fast-and-dirty draft, and I e all the time been proud of the outcomes. We could have a larger-volume hood consequently, without significant middle front overlap.

So beneath, I have a tried-and-true block for a fitted long sleeved shirt, with a 1/2 seam allowance. To save lots of paper, I’ve my entrance and again items combined. Observe, it is a slightly deep neck tee. You’ll be able to always bring the deep neck up into a crew neckline, if you want. However the whole level of my tutorial is to indicate you how one can draft the hood to the neckline you might have. The objective is we have sufficient volume in your hood it would look good, and won pull.

Beneath, I’ve marked the stitching lines on each the front and again, in red and inexperienced resp. I’ve also measured the precise distances of the stitching traces – at 4 1/2 for the again, and 10 1/8 for the entrance. Note I’ve stopped quick 1/2 as a result of that’s the stitch line on the shoulder.

So for those who give it some thought, 2(10 1/8 + 2(four 1/2 will equal the precise distance of the hood stitching line. That isn enough information, nevertheless, to draft a hood. We additionally want the vertical drop from the internal shoulder point, to the middle entrance stitching line. I e placed a pen along this line, to show you the gap I imply (7 three/4 right here); I going to call this my center depth.

There may be yet one more measurement you could take – in your physique. Holding a flexible tape measure from the neck – just under your ear, at high of the shoulder – to the middle of your head. I will name this the pinnacle/neck height. In my case, I measured 12 1/2

So we have our:

Entrance stitching distance (10 1/8
Back stitching line (four 1/2
Heart depth (7 three/4
Head/neck height (12 1/2

You may wish to print the beneath diagram out. The method isn as difficult because it appears to be like, but when describing it, it could actually sound difficult!

So first, I make a cross in the course of my paper. The center of this intersection, is level zero. Point 0 will represent the shoulder notch – right where the hood crosses the shoulder seam. Now, it time so as to add level 1. This level might be positioned the back stitching line distance (4 1/2 from level zero.

Next, draw a line parallel to zero-1, the center drop distance away from this line (7 3/4 in my example). The intersection of this line to the vertical line, is level 2. You now have three lines and three factors in your paper (higher proper diagram).

We are going to now take our front stitching line distance – 10 1/8 in my example – and measure out from point zero, angling to the left to intersect with the decrease line. This intersection is point three (center left on the diagram).

Now, we measure UP line zero-2, from point 0 to our head/neck peak, plus a minimum of 1 The extra distance you measure up right here, the more volume to your hood so the more the hood will relaxation in your shoulders even after you place it up. I added 2 which means my point four is 14 1/2 from my level 0 (diagram to not scale, obv).

Now, we get to attract our hood (the bottom set of drawings below)! I going to jot down about how to do this, beneath the diagram.

So, the hood stitchine lines need to intersect at points zero, 1, three, and four. The crimson line at decrease left, represents the form I drafted in. You possibly can keep the entrance edge of the hood straight if you like – I add a subtle concave curve. For those who notice, too, I wish to deliver down the back heart seam of the hood a bit – it makes for extra of a cowl impact. You possibly can drop this level an inch or so; just measure from point zero to the bottom heart back of the hood, to verify this distance is equal to the again stitching line (four 1/2 . Correct as wanted using a french curve or a versatile tape measure.

The hood can dip again (to the best) so far as you like, or basically lengthen straight up from point 1; your call. Again, I like so as to add a generous curve as I have a big head and likewise like a voluminous hood.

Finally – add seam allowances (decrease proper) – and you e good! Reminder: the leading edge of the hood wants enough allowance for a hem (or lining).

A few extra concerns: before you minimize: eyelets. If you want an eyelet for a drawstring, just consider you want it centered within the folded-again entrance edge allowance, and mark accordingly.

After stitching the (lined or unlined) hood together, and finishing that front edge, pin – marking your shoulder notch (point 0).


These necks two hacks are or fun and for free as we say. Just goofin New boot goofin And easier than the above demo, I might add.

First, I going to show a knotted hood. Every time I make a knotted hood, my oldest child calls it a neaky hoodie So, I like that. Here a sneaky hoodie. Proven below: the awesome Tami Revolution Double Hoodie from New Horizons Designs (used right here with permission).

Here is the basic premise, from our hood (the sample consists of seam allowances, beneath). We’re adding an extended ail You want the straightaway of the tail to be no shorter than 12 (these hood hacks eat up yardage – but I l speak about that in a second!). The thinner your tail, the more distinct the knot will probably be. A thicker tail, ends in a sort of gathered look. Which is cool, too.

As you can see beneath, I like a curved seam right here. I end it as gorgeously as I can, because I want to depart massive hoods unlined if potential.

Stitch the hood halves collectively, turn and gently press the tail, and continue as per the sample.

I ought to add, too – I untie my knot after i launder, and only re-tie it when the garment is totally dry. I feel that keeps the knot wanting resh

And now – it time for my closing entry – adding ears to a hood.

Please remember the fact that you probably have very lengthy or massive ears, they will not stand up when the hood is employed except you use wire or another structure – I e written a tutorial or two on that. But right here, I’m utilizing simply a couple little cat ears.

Basically, I place the ears about 3 away from the finished edge of the hood (dashed line at higher left, under). As for the space down from the hood middle seam, that too depends upon what sort of look you e going for. I’m doing cat ears here, so I wanted the ears up somewhat larger! I selected a 5 span from the internal junction of one ear, to the opposite.

Proven here, the 2-Pocket Jacket with Draped Hood, from Bootstrap. Be aware the front of the hood is on the straight of grain. However even when the hood front is curved, you’ll be marking and slicing proper along the vertical grainline. You might after all do a curved line here however it easier to draft and minimize and stitch a straight one, so that what I demonstrating.

Then go ahead and make up your ears! Below you see the ear my baby drew for me (the bottom curved ear, is exactly that 2 that’s marked on the master sample above); then my traced version with seam allowance added:

Add seam allowances, to the slashed line your created from the hood:

It is super-satisfying to sew up little ears (I usually interface mine before reducing, as you possibly can see). Stitch, clip and grade, flip and press. Then affix them to the hood and baste, earlier than joining the 2 hood slashed pieces collectively.

(Egregious topstitching photo, as a result of I can!)

So there you may have it! Take a look at my smiling hoodie ladies!

And word how gorgeously the drafted hood sits within the deep neckline (and how lovely my pal Andrea is!):

So – blissful hoodie sewing! For those of us in the northern hemisphere, the time is right!

And what about you? Do you want hoodies? Do you want a full hood, or a smaller one? Do you wear them up – or (like me) benefit from the feeling of them resting on your shoulders?